Topic Title

The builder I work for is getting more involved with Non-Profit groups and federally funded housing projects. One of the new words I have learned due to this broadening relationship is "Visit-Ability". I have read alot about it and frankly find myself supporting it.

My reason for bringing it up is finding the best way to convert our stock plans into visit-able plans.

The issue I was looking for advice on is the ZERO-STEP entrance. Our houses typically have the foundation 12-16" above grade with standard 2x10 first floor framing. This places the first floor 24-28" above grade. Our porches have approximately and 8" step to the first floor.

Has anyone else dealt with the issue of creating the ZERO-STEP for plans like these and what is the most effective way to do this. I have come up with an idea or two but am not very happy with the overall feel. These are not slab-on-grade plans, they have basements.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I suppose you could build the basement walls of 12" block to just under the bearing elevation of the floor joists, place the tops of the floor joists just a little above grade level, then still build a couple of courses of 8" block on top of the 12" block (the 4" difference would provide the bearing haunch for the floor joists around the perimeter of the foundation) so that you would not have the wood studs for the first floor wall down at the dirt level. See attached (if I did the attachment right).

[img]http://www.imageshack.us][IMG]http://img276.echo.cx/img276/4804/flrflushwithgrade6bx.jpg[/img][/img]

Hi Tony,

I've worked on and designed several homes that requiered barrier free access. The Michigan building code based on the International Building Code requires concrete and masonary foundation walls to extend a minimum of 4" above the adjacent grade (R404.1.6). Typical western platform framing puts the finish floor 16" or more above grade which can require a long ramp in what is usally a small yard space.

We simply hang the joist from the sill plate so that the joist drop down into the basement space. This places the finish floor in the 6"-8" above grade range which is one step or the small ramp combined with some grading for a barrier free access. With a full basement I usually specify 9' foundation walls to make up for the lost headroom.

I have a detail but I clueless on how to post it. Send me an email at scottbldr@voyager.net if you would like a pdf or dc5 file.

Robert Scott

Hi:

David, this is how you have to link images:

Code: Select all[img]http://img276.echo.cx/img276/4804/flrflushwithgrade6bx.jpg[/img]

and it works like this:

[Edit: this is not my detail; it is David's from above.]

On the detail: the biggest problem I see with it is the lack of insulation at the base of the wall -- there will be a problem with moisture condensing on the inside during the winter, here in the colder climates. Plus, we need a minimum of 8" from finish grade to bottom edge of the siding, otherwise the threat of rot and/or termites is high.

I'll have to look into the ramp/threshold detail, but I think that a more standard sill detail is still "do-able"?

The Michigan building code based on the International Building Code requires concrete and masonary foundation walls to extend a minimum of 4" above the adjacent grade (R404.1.6)

Correction...that should have read a minimum of 6" above the adjacent grade...4" with masonary veneer.[/b]

What we are currently doing is:

Raising the porch up 8" to match first floor elevation.

Sloping or raising the grade to within 6" of the porch at the porch.

We then slope the grade back down once we are past the house to get back to 8" below the top of foundation.

It works but I just want to know if it is the best solution or if there is a better way out there that is tested and true.

Thanks to all who have responded so far.

Neil,
I liked your detail, but to deal with the insulation problem could you add 2" rigid insulation on the exterior and continuing it from footing to roof truss. The Energy & Environmental Building Association has several details that do this. We have installed fiber cement siding over 2" rigid insulation.

Hi Arthur:

I was reposting a detail that David had tried to show in his post -- I realize now that I did not make that clear...

The problem I have with rigid insulation exposed at or below grade, especially if it is continuous up the wall -- is that it would be a highway for bugs! I will have to try and find a more satisfactory detail -- I think that it will involve solving the water/flashing problem at the door sill itself, rather than having to affect the entire exterior wall system.