Post off topic threads here.
#35277 by Neil Blanchard
Fri Apr 18, 2008 5:39 am
Hi Nick,

Why LPG? What advantages does it have?

I don't know of anywhere that sells it. Years ago, I drove for the local newspaper, and their vans ran on propane, and it lasted only about 80 miles, and we then switched over to gasoline (I'm sure there was some compromising goin' on...) for the rest of the night.
#35284 by joshhuggins
Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:25 am
Neil Blanchard wrote:Hi Nick,

Why LPG? What advantages does it have?
It burns a lot cleaner than gasoline, which is not only good for the environment, it's also a lot better on the engine. LPG ran quite a bit cooler, but not too cool. Other than that it gets about the same mileage. 10 years ago LPG was supposed to be the "clean fuel" but with the recent advances in bio fuel, natural gas, and the other new options, LPG is not the best bet anymore for the "fuel of the future". A lot of the west coast municipal bus transportation, and larger businesses with fleet vehicles use LPG or natural gas. The biggest advantage for the LPG was the kit was pretty much a bolt on addition to existing gasoline engines, where other options often require more expensive and complex re-timing systems. It's a pretty easy conversion kit, and I think almost all the major truck dealerships have LPG options available for business clients. As for selling it, most businesses that employ it in a fleet of trucks have a on site filling station where LPG is delivered on site. It's not really practical for an individual living in a city, which is why I switched my truck back to gas. But when I had it we lived out in the country and my fathers truck also ran on LPG and we had a 800 gal tank and pump at home, so filling up at the house was soooooo nice. Only bad thing is some people think the added agent in the LPG smells bad, and if you get it on you it's gonna smell ya up for the next few hours :) But I kind of liked it. But I kind of like dairies. I'm kind of a sicko that way :wink:
#35294 by Nick Pyner
Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:24 am
Hi Nick,

Why LPG? What advantages does it have?


It's cheaper, it's cleaner, and the technology has been in place for over thirty years, i.e. nothing airy-fairy about it.

I don't know of anywhere that sells it.


Hmmm. Now, is that an availability problem or a political problem?

Years ago, I drove for the local newspaper, and their vans ran on propane, and it lasted only about 80 miles, and we then switched over to gasoline (I'm sure there was some compromising goin' on...) for the rest of the night.


Indeed. It sounds like a half-assed and casual application. Every taxi in Australia, without exception, runs on LPG, nearly all of them are LPG only and come that way off the production line. I guess they would get at least 250 miles from a tank round town. The standard tank is about 15 US gallons. The cost of LPG is never more than 40% that of petrol.

We have a lot of LPG and the government made a big push to get it into cars after the Yom Kippur war by keeping the tax down.

Out on the Interstate, where I do a lot of driving, the economy can be quite dramatic. The only things that count are how far you go and how much it costs. You check that and then check how much petrol you could have bought at the adjacent pump, and derive the petrol mileage equivalent.

The nett result in US terms is 51 mpg.

That is driving normally, normal 28psi, a/c on, 70 on the freeway, 60 on the highway, carrying a reasonable amount of cargo, full tanks, and no dangerous petrol saving stunts.

The car is a 1992 Ford Fairlane with 4 litre six cylinder and dual fuel systems. It is the biggest car made in Australia and about the same size as a Crown Victoria but somewhat lighter, a lot more elegant, and a lot more refined. It also comes with a 5 litre V8 but I guess those days are over for me.

(edit)
And one vital thing I forgot...
LPG does not involve agriculture
Last edited by Nick Pyner on Sat Apr 19, 2008 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
#35295 by David A. Giesselman
Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:38 am
Nick Pyner wrote:... It also comes with a 5 litre V8 but I guess those days are over for me.

Too bad Nick, you could trade it in on a new Holden Commodore HSV. Talk about a quick way to get the groceries! :wink:

Image

Dave
#35319 by Nick Pyner
Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:55 pm
Indeed Dave, but your golden opportunity may come soon courtesy of your friendly GM local dealer. I hear talk of it being exported LHD under the Buick label. And just think, you will be able to stir up Madura no end. How could you pass that up?!
#35454 by Neil Blanchard
Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:43 am
Hello folks,

Mike Smith (and his daughter Sophia) made the top half of the front page of our local newspaper this week. Here's the link to the story; which includes a photo and a video of the event, with Mike (and Sophia):

http://www.wickedlocal.com/maynard/news/x1319858926

Mike was the chairman of the Public Safety Committee for Maynard, MA that oversaw the design of our new police facility. It is going in the space that was formerly the town library -- which itself has moved to an old school building. The knock-on effect is being used to full advantage!

Congratulations to Michael and the rest of the Public Safety Committee on their hard work.
#35655 by Neil Blanchard
Thu May 01, 2008 2:39 pm
Greetings,

If your tires have maximum pressure above 40psi (look on the sidewall), try inflating them to 38psi or 39psi (even if the recommended pressure is 32-34), and this will reduce rolling resistance (which is most important when driving slower). If you go too high, though, you may notice reduced traction.

Drive 55-60mph on the highway. This is huge.

Anticipate your stops, and put it in neutral and coast to a stop; trying to use a little brakes as possible.

In stop and go traffic, drive as gently as possible, and let a small buffer space open up to the vehicle in front of you -- coast up behind the next vehicle, trying to time things so that you never stop rolling.

Do not leave the ventilation set to the windshield defrost -- this runs the A/C. (Which is very frustrating -- I realize what it does, but it should only do this only when you need the maximum defrosting. In ice storms, the A/C is actually very counterproductive.)

Crack the windows and run the ventilation vents w/o the fan on the highway when you need to cool off, and only open the windows at lower speeds. Opening the windows adds to the aerodynamic drag at highway speeds, almost as much as running the A/C takes to run. Myth Busters did a comparison of this, BTW.

The summer blend of gas gives me noticeably better mileage -- it jumps from 36-38mpg up to 40-43mpg in my Scion xA. My average gas mileage for the 3 years I've had the car is 37mpg -- which compares very well to the 30mpg (combined) that the EPA rates it. My best tankful so far was 43.5mpg.

Here's the federal government's fuel economy web page: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ where you can upload your fuel purchases and compare your fuel economy with others. (Thanks to Mark M. for posting this site!)
#36356 by John Rowan
Tue May 27, 2008 11:27 am
Neil Blanchard wrote:Greetings,

If your tires have maximum pressure above 40psi (look on the sidewall), try inflating them to 38psi or 39psi (even if the recommended pressure is 32-34), and this will reduce rolling resistance (which is most important when driving slower). If you go too high, though, you may notice reduced traction.


You should also add "And you will also notice that your tyres will be bald in the middle third after not very long"
:lol:

John
#36357 by Neil Blanchard
Tue May 27, 2008 11:50 am
Hi John,

So far, my tires have not shown this. My tires are 60 series -- my previous car had 50 series, and they did show a greater "sensitivity" to inflation. The broader tread (relative to the sidewall) did show abnormal wear due to over (or under) inflation.

Above 39psi, I do notice a loss of wet and dry traction, so I try to keep them at 38psi.
#36367 by Neil Blanchard
Tue May 27, 2008 1:21 pm
Hi John,

Just to reiterate: I am not exceeding the maximum pressure on the sidewall of the tires -- in my case, that is 44psi, so there should not be any issues when used under normal loads, etc.

Ironically, blowouts from overheating the tire happen usually when a tire is underinflated...
#36379 by Nick Pyner
Tue May 27, 2008 9:58 pm
Neil Blanchard wrote:Hello,

I heard about a really useful website (on the Popular Mechanics web site), for hypermilers:

http://ecomodder.com/



There have been a few aerodynamic ute covers around here for a few years now. They are about the same as the one shown but bigger windows. I think it might be a guy doing them bespoke, all on Holden Commodores, rather than any large scale commercial operation, but there is nothing amateurish about the installation.
#36386 by Neil Blanchard
Wed May 28, 2008 8:52 am
Hi,

I'm experimenting with covering the upper large grill opening on my Scion xA (with translucent duct tape) to reduce drag. It seems to be working, but I'll have to drive with it a bit more to see what the results are. If it works, I'll fashion a more permanent cover.

I doubt it will cause my engine to overheat -- my car is a special edition (RS 2.0) that has a unique grill that is much more open than the stock grill. And I still have a large opening below the bumper, and a slot (about 1" high) across between the headlights above the bumper. So far, the electric cooling fan(s?) behind the radiator have not come on -- they only ever do when I am stopped in traffic, anyway.

[Edit: The initial results from my testing this modification to the radiator grill on my Scion xA that has improved my gas mileage by at least 2mpg over my previous best, and I got a 4mpg improvement over the previous tankful. I got 45.53mpg, or 439.3 miles on 9.648 gallons (for which I paid $38.00 @ $3.93.9/gallon). Not too shabby for virtually no cost.]
Last edited by Neil Blanchard on Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
#36509 by Neil Blanchard
Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:02 am
I recently saw a sign for this geothermal company, and their system looks to be very economical:

http://ne-geothermal.com/

They use a closed-loop "node" system, that seems like it is much easier/less expensive to install. I am going to be talking to them about an installation in my mother's house -- and maybe my own, too.

Their method seems like it would be much less expensive than excavating a large area down 4'-5' and laying coils of tubing:

Image

This image is apparently for a 5-ton installation, so it is bigger than I'm considering. The Northeastern Geothermal web site talks about fairly brief payback times:

"Estimate payback in 3-5 years as compared to electric resistance
Estimate 5-7 years for oil, natural gas or Liquid propane"

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